Sorry about that, but now I'm thinking it could just
be a failure that happened coincidentally and had
nothing to do with your retorque and valve adj.
Check
the aux air valve as per my previous post and see if
that's the problem. Let us know.
- Dave Towle <davidtowle@mail.com> wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>
> Sounds like you misunderstood my post, the car ran
> fine after the head
> replacement, I only got this problem after
> retorqueing and adjusting
> the valves. So I think they must have been
> reattached correctly after
> the head replacement, and when I took off the valve
> cover I didn't
> detach anything electrical, so they should be OK.
> In checking the
> connections per Mike A's instructions yesterday I
> disconnected each
> joint one at a time so I couldn't have mixed them
> up.
>
> Thanks, Dave Towle
>
> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, gary freeman
> <riven2649@y...> wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > Since this problem occurred only after you had
> per-
> > formed the head job, the first things to look at
> are
> > what could have been changed during the work. My
>
> > first thoughts are those complicated two pin
> conn-
> > ectors with the wire clip around them(they're
> > callled
> > Bosch connectors as they're for all the fuel
> inj.
> > connections) as on most cars they are color
> coded
> > to the connector on the device itself, or the
> tab
> > is offset differently so that they can only be
> con-
> > nected to the correct device; but some car
> companies
> > don't bother about that and the French are well
> > known for those lapses. So what I'm saying, is
> be
> > sure you have those reconnected to the proper
> device
> > as if they're not, those devices(such as the aux
> air
> > valve) will not work properly.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Gary Freeman
> >
> > --- pyoung <bf135@s...> wrote:
> >
> > > Dave,
> > > Is the auxilary air valve wiring working? It
> could
> > > be that the valve is
> > > not being electrically closed when cold but once
> the
> > > manifold gets warm
> > > enough heat induction would keep it shut.
> > > Do you have the workshop manual for the n9txx
> > > engines?
> > >
> > > Peat
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jul 11, 2005, at 6:12 PM, Dave Towle wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Mike and anyone else who can help,
> > > >
> > > > - PCV hose looks fine.
> > > > - I checked the air intake boot all around
> with a
> > > mirror, couldn't see
> > > > any problems although its hard to see in the
> > > folds. I felt around it
> > > > too.
> > > > - On the thermostat there's 4 individual
> sensor
> > > wires, on these I
> > > > polished the prong and tightened up the female
> > > side and used a drop of
> > > > VW's Stabilant (discussed on this list a year
> or
> > > two ago as a great
> > > > way to improve electrical conections).
> > > > - There's also 2 fancy connectors held on by a
> > > wire clip, each with 2
> > > > small connections inside, all I could do with
> > > these tiny things was
> > > > make and break the contact a few times hoping
> that
> > > would clean them
> > > > up. They looked nice and shiny from the
> beginning
> > > though.
> > > > - I assume the air temp sensor is the one in
> the
> > > curved part of the
> > > > inlet, I cleaned this up like the individual
> > > thermsostat wires above.
> > > >
> > > > So I did all this stuff and no change to the
> cold
> > > start problem. And
> > > > by the way I haven't seen this create any
> light
> > > flashing codes.
> > > >
> > > > It seems this is likely a problem with the ECU
> > > thinking the engine is
> > > > warm when it is actually cold, right? Is
> there
> > > any easy way to test
> > > > this by convincing the ECU that the engine is
> > > cold, like grounding one
> > > > fo the above wires, or directly connecting 2
> wires
> > > to bypass a sensor?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Dave Towle
> > > >
> > > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Aube"
> > > <maube@i...> wrote:
> > > >> Check the PCV hose, air intake boot, from AFM
> to
> > > turbo, all the
> > > > electricall
> > > >> connections around the thermostat housing and
> air
> > > temp sensor on
> > > >> intake
> > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> > > >> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> > > >> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 1:09 PM
> > > >> Subject: [Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold
> Idle
> > > Problem
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> Hi,
> > > >>> The throttle body seal appears good, might
> have
> > > been just replaced
> > > >>> (can't remember for sure). To make sure I
> > > sprayed ether all around
> > > >>> it
> > > >>> and the other connections on the manifold
> and
> > > got no audible change
> > > >>> in
> > > >>> rpm (at idle the whole manifold is under
> vacuum,
> > > right? just
> > > > making sure).
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Any other ideas?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks,
> > > >>> Dave Towle
> > > >>>
> > > >>> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com,
> <peugeot@m...>
> > > wrote:
> > > >>>> Take a look at the throttlebody the seal to
> see
> > > if it is sucking
> > > > air.
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >>>> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> > > >>>> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> > > >>>> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 4:19 PM
> > > >>>> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
> > > Problem
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>>> I retorqued the head and reset the valve
> > > clearances after
> > > > Mike Aube
> > > >>>>> did a nice job replacing my car's head
> (among
> > > other fixes).
> > > >>>>> Unfortunately this has given me 2 new
> > > problems, a)oil leaks (for
> > > >>>>> which the solution is obvious, try again)
> and
> > > b) I lost the
> > > > cold idle.
> > > >>>>> Each time I try to start the car,
> everything
> > > seems fine at
> > > > first with
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Thu Jul 14 00:39:34 2005
