Thanks Peat, this is just the sort of detailed info I was looking for.
It does appear the air valve is my problem, but I'm not sure how the
following symptoms fit together yet:
- Idle speed OK once warm, although maybe a little low
- At ambient temp the valve is open about 10% of the total inlet tube
area, seems too low
- No change in valve position after 5 minutes with the ignition on
- No voltage across the incoming wire with ignition on
- Can't find any blown fuses
- 30 ohms resistance across the valve terminals
- Cold idle is about 1600 rpm when I connect the 2 air valve hoses
with a socket
Now I assume this valve is controlled simply by an
always-on-with-the-ignition heater and a bimetallic spring controlling
the flow area, correct? If so my best guess based on the symptoms is
the heater failed and overloaded the wiring, breaking the 12 volt
connection. The evidence against this is that there's still 30 ohms
resistance which seems reasonable for a small heater.
Where does the power for this unit come from? The wire goes under the
manifold and I couldn't follow where it goes. Should I just run a new
wire to the valve from the ignition somewhere? I guess its probable I
should get a new valve too, unless 10% open is OK.
Thanks, Dave Towle
- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, pyoung <bf135@s...> wrote:
> I'm not 100% sure the air valve is malfunctioning since the car was
> running before you retorqued. I was guessing that it had something to
> with an electrical connection that got knocked out of place or not
> replaced completely.
> Since the Air valve only comes into play during warmup, and the car
> runs fine once warmed up right????.... Is the idle steady at 950 or so
> when warm?( automatic?).
> Check to make sure that you are getting 12 volts to the 2 pronged
> "Bosch" style connector on the back of the valve and that it is on
> there firmly . You should have 12 volts whenever the key is in the run
> position.
> If you want to make sure the valve is closing disconnect the hoses on
> either side so you can see the v shaped hole ( use a small flashlight
> or white paper on the opposite side so you can see it better), turn the
> key to run (don't start it!), after 3-5 minutes the little v shaped air
> passage should close up. If not, either the valve is bad, (not in your
> case) or it's not getting 12 volts at the connector.
> It could be other things also such as an air leak as others have
> suggested, but with mine any sort of air leak kills it completely.
> You might want to just check all the bosch connectors around the intake
> side of the engine to make sure that they are snug.
> It IS possible to tighten the connection on these by very carefully
> using a very small jewelers screwdriver to bend the prongs in the cap
> closer together. These connections usually don't corrode too much
> because of the built in rubber seal around the edge.
>
> Peat
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Received on Thu Jul 14 19:15:29 2005
