I'm working again on my cold idle problem after a two week lapse and
have some new info. I think I've proven the aux air device is not the
problem, even though it was not getting power, what I did is put the
device in the freezer which made it open about 25% instead of 10%, ran
down and popped it into the car and did a cold start. Now instead of
initially going to 900 rpm it went to 1200 rpm, but still died after
about 7 seconds as the idle gradually dropped below 500 rpm to where
it couldn't run any more. I restarted the engine, and it did the same
exact thing again so it wasn't from the device closing already. So
what else could be the problem here?
Another problem I noticed two weeks ago was the alternator getting
funky, since then it started making whining noises, the light staying
on to higher rpms, and now its died completely. I noticed oil on top
of it, apparently due to the power steering reservoir being way
overfilled (not by me), could that have killed it? Could the
alternator failure have anything to do with my idle problem, maybe
from increased drag when things are cold?
A third probably side issue is I dropped a socket that went under the
battery, under there was a wire to nowhere. Its a plain green wire
with a female spade end, has a black sheath all its own about 2 feet
long, and it originates from the mess between the coil and the
windshield wash reservoir. Anyone know what this is or where it goes?
Thanks Peat, Gary, George, Mike for your continuing help,
Dave Towle
> Dave,
> 10% opening is right, and that's why you had such a high idle when you
> directly bypassed it with the socket. The power for the Aux air device
> comes from the Tachymetric relay under the steering wheel. However
> there are a few connectors in between which is probably where the
> problem is. There is a brown 6 terminal connector, a yellow 6 terminal
> connector and a white 8 terminal connector near the fuse box in the
> engine bay. I think they are all behind the Relay brackets, but could
> be a different position with ABS on the 87. The Aux air wires are #48
> pos. and #34 neutral in the white connector # 34 connects to #46a and
> #48 connects to #48. On the Brown connector #48 comes from the white
> connector and continues on to the Tachymetric relay as #248.
> The long and the short of it is.... just locate those connectors,
> unplug and plug them a few times and see if you don't get the 12 volts
> back at the aux air bosch connector. I think your aux air valve is
> probably ok.
> By the way the voltage for the heater element in your O2 sensor comes
> from the same Tachymetric relay, though from a different pin, it's the
> same source. If you don't get the current back at the Aux air device do
> the same check at the bosch connector that hooks to the O2 sensor.
>
> Good luck,
> Peat
>
> On Jul 14, 2005, at 7:13 PM, Dave Towle wrote:
>
> > Thanks Peat, this is just the sort of detailed info I was looking for.
> >
> > It does appear the air valve is my problem, but I'm not sure how the
> > following symptoms fit together yet:
> > - Idle speed OK once warm, although maybe a little low
> > - At ambient temp the valve is open about 10% of the total inlet tube
> > area, seems too low
> > - No change in valve position after 5 minutes with the ignition on
> > - No voltage across the incoming wire with ignition on
> > - Can't find any blown fuses
> > - 30 ohms resistance across the valve terminals
> > - Cold idle is about 1600 rpm when I connect the 2 air valve hoses
> > with a socket
> >
> > Now I assume this valve is controlled simply by an
> > always-on-with-the-ignition heater and a bimetallic spring controlling
> > the flow area, correct? If so my best guess based on the symptoms is
> > the heater failed and overloaded the wiring, breaking the 12 volt
> > connection. The evidence against this is that there's still 30 ohms
> > resistance which seems reasonable for a small heater.
> >
> > Where does the power for this unit come from? The wire goes under the
> > manifold and I couldn't follow where it goes. Should I just run a new
> > wire to the valve from the ignition somewhere? I guess its probable I
> > should get a new valve too, unless 10% open is OK.
> >
> > Thanks, Dave Towle
> >
On
> > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, pyoung <bf135@s...> wrote:
> >> I'm not 100% sure the air valve is malfunctioning since the car was
> >> running before you retorqued. I was guessing that it had something to
> >> with an electrical connection that got knocked out of place or not
> >> replaced completely.
> >> Since the Air valve only comes into play during warmup, and the car
> >> runs fine once warmed up right????.... Is the idle steady at 950
or so
> >> when warm?( automatic?).
> >> Check to make sure that you are getting 12 volts to the 2 pronged
> >> "Bosch" style connector on the back of the valve and that it is on
> >> there firmly . You should have 12 volts whenever the key is in
the run
> >> position.
> >> If you want to make sure the valve is closing disconnect the hoses on
> >> either side so you can see the v shaped hole ( use a small flashlight
> >> or white paper on the opposite side so you can see it better), turn
> >> the
> >> key to run (don't start it!), after 3-5 minutes the little v shaped
> >> air
> >> passage should close up. If not, either the valve is bad, (not in
your
> >> case) or it's not getting 12 volts at the connector.
> >> It could be other things also such as an air leak as others have
> >> suggested, but with mine any sort of air leak kills it completely.
> >> You might want to just check all the bosch connectors around the
> >> intake
> >> side of the engine to make sure that they are snug.
> >> It IS possible to tighten the connection on these by very carefully
> >> using a very small jewelers screwdriver to bend the prongs in the cap
> >> closer together. These connections usually don't corrode too much
> >> because of the built in rubber seal around the edge.
> >>
> >> Peat
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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Received on Mon Jul 25 19:28:15 2005
