Take the booster out,
You have to remove the wiper assy
You maybe able to move the master cylinder enough without disconnecting the lines
there are 4 nuts above the pedal cluster and a pin through the brake pedal arm
bend the crimps out so you can split the booster in half
the spring inside is not very powerful
you will not get hurt by flying pieces
clean everything and reassemble
I use a clamp to hold the 2 halves together before bending the crimps back
The spring is just awkward enough that I need the third hand
Bob
- Original Message -----
From: billbranch1@aol.com
To: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 5:30 PM
Subject: [Peugeot-L] Mi16 Brake Questions
Hello,
I wrote last weekend about what I thought was a sticking vacuum booster.
It's ostensibly not sticking, but...
The rears locked up after driving two miles last night. I cracked a rear
bleeder, and the symptom disappeared, although it was hardly a forceful, for
lack of a better word, ejaculation.
I drove the car for ten miles, then, no problems. I foolishly didn't check
the fronts for lock-up.
One opinion is the booster, because it was so contaminated with moisture,
another is the master cylinder.
The brake pedal is about an inch in travel closer to the floor than the
clutch pedal. Is this normal? The brakes operate fine, except that there is no
modulating. It's either 95% or 5%. The first 2/3 of pedal travel make little
difference, then I stop.
There are no visible fluid leaks. The pedal doesn't seem to "pump up." It
does not sink.The pads are all new, the rotors all resurfaced. Any suggestions?
I would like to drive the car to have it repaired, if I don't get a lock-up.
Thanks for any info, tips, or suggestions.
Bill
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Received on Tue Jul 26 19:04:20 2005
