> I'm not quite sure where you've gotten the idea that TTY bolts are
> unsuitable for boosted applications. Replacement head bolts are
> pretty uncommon with Volvos, and they're running TTY bolts. Point of
> reference would be the 16 valve turbo conversion making (as of now)
> 330hp, on stock bolts, stock head, stock head gasket, and somewhere
> around 7psi of boost :-D
TTY bolts suck ass for turbos. No one who puts out any serious, reliable
horsepower uses them. They're a perfect match for standard composite
headgaskets. About right for n/a cars or small pea-shooter turbos that ship
with a 30K factory warranty.
sniff-sniff? 330HP and only 7 psi? 4 cylinder? You must have meant 17
psi? Otherwise just how big is this engine and what's it's redline?
> > The only true fix is studs. And as I'm sure you're aware of, not just
any
> > stud. Critical fastiners must be completely accurate or they're
worthless.
>
> Accurate how?
Thread depth, overall length & nut clearances on bosses.
>
> > Problem #1. Getting studs. No one has off-the-shelf ones. You'd have
to
> > go custom with ARP. As a note, to accuracy, etc. when the studs and
bolts
> > for the 7M-GTE Toyota inline six engine came out from ARP, they weren't
100%
> > accurate.
>
> Say what?
>
> Did they have to guess the thread pitch or somesuch?
The stock bolts on a Toyota M series are cap screws, not your standard hex
head bolts. Clearance is too tight for a standard hex head bolt.
But hey, if you know that Ace Hardware studs work and fit just as good as
ARP, don't let me slow you down.
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Received on Wed Aug 17 01:41:05 2005
