John Lane was using a common intake for all 6 cylinders. He used a
big,single turbo, not twin. He doesn't mention what his turbo lag is,
or his 0-60 time (which is what I'd be interested in). Here's a post
he did for the Delorean owners on how he got massive HP out of the
PRV. It's taken from http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/performance.html
This information was supplied by Mr. John Lane of Pacific Rim
Automotive in Seattle Washington. John as given his recipe for making
his PRV powered rally car into one fast machine.
Sincerely,
Michael
Subj: Re: PRV 500 HPs?????
Date: 04/09/2003 8:41:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: jlane@(John Lane)
To: Senatorpack
Hello to all who are interested in making their PRV break drivetrain
parts. I have been hugely successful in doing just that.
I have had a number of queries as to how I have made my toy just sooo
darned silly fast. Here goes.....
I am using the engine block with the cross-bolted main bearings and
oil to water oil cooler as used in the Volvo B-280.
I am using the cylinder heads of an Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco, as the
intake ports of the Premier are MUCH better then Volvo used. Set
them side by side to see how Volvo managed to choke the V-6 back to
making less power then the turbo-4.
The heads got ported on the intake side to tidy up a bit, and a LOT in
the exhaust to help that ugly mess.
The camshafts of the Volvo flavor will give better top end power, and
alloy rocker arms are readily available from Volvo. The Volvo cams
are of the mechanical variety, so you will get to adjust valves. I
have not tried the Premier cams with their hydraulic valve lash
adjusters for anything but a street engine, but in that form it ran
just fine naturally aspirated. The Premier cams are certainly of the
flavor which will make for more low end power.
I use the throttle body as used in the Volvo engine as it is of larger
diameter, and it is aimed better for the turbo.
For pistons I am using J&E forged slugs with a dish in them to drop
compression to 8 to 1.
I am using the liners from the Premier for three liters of
displacement. More cubes is more fun all else being equal.
I have learned the hard way that the standard connecting rods are not
up to the task. When it blew up, all the rods except for the one
that made shrapnel were shorter by one to two mm. Too many parts were
missing from the broken rod to guess how much shorter it was before it
expired. Yikes!! Forced induction will push a LOT harder on everything.
My answer for that was to pick out an Eagle Racing connecting rod
(think Merikanski V-8 stuff which is made by the bajillion and
therefore relatively affordable) which is close dimensionally to what
we need and have the machinist go wild to make 'em work. Lots of
effort for rods which have not had to be babysat since. Just the way
I like 'em.
The whole rotating mess got balanced with the flywheel and the clutch.
The turbo is a nice big T-04 that I had made up for me based on my
requirements.
The turbo manifold was made up special to get from the exhaust
manifolds to the turbo.
I use an HKS external wastegate, and am as tickled as can be with how
it works. I am not fond of internal wastegates. Boost creep and
other naughtiness....
Oil gets to the turbo via a metal braided hose which is tapped into
the big plug next to the oil filter. I have never checked my oil
pressure, but have had zero oiling issues. If it don't sieze, it has
to be all good right? I use Mobil One synthetic oil.
Oil from the turbo drain gets back to the pan via the hole in the
upper pan (as used in Volvo) next to the hole used for the dipstick.
Volvo used this hole in the 760 for an oil level sensor. We don't
need it. We service and pay attention to our engines right?
The turbo feeds it's warm compressed air to a Ford Powerstroke Diesel
intercooler fitted in front of the radiator. Ignore what the
naysayers snivel about with having a huge intercooler. It is the
ONLY way to go compared with a smaller less efficient unit.
Fuel and ignition is handled with Electromotive laptop programmable
fuel infection and ignition. With this system, or a similar
arrangement one can have perfect drivability with legal emissions and
monster power in boost. Careful though.....One is only a couple of
keystrokes away from blowing it up should you get it wrong. It is the
incentive program.....Do Not get it wrong.
I had the nice folks at Electromotive supply me with the proper size
injectors along with a fuel pressure regulator and all the GM sensors
I needed to do this. It uses a MAP sensor, so no air mass meter to
fail, or be in the way of free flowing air. Now I have a MAP
sensor to fail, but have not experienced that yet.
I am using the fuel pump arrangement as used in later model Mercedes
V-8 and V-12 cars. This an arrangement that the wrecking yard will
be happy to sell you for around $150.00, and it will feed as much
power as we are going to make. You will need larger fuel supply lines.
I am using the exhaust manifolds of the Volvo as they clear my
steering linkage. The manifolds in the Premier look better for flow,
but will not fit in my car without a lot of work. The Volvo
manifolds do not seem to be slowing me down. : )
My flywheel is the Volvo thing; lightened on the brakelathe, and then
fitted with a Quarter Master three disc clutch. The On-off switch
which WILL apply all that power.
WARNING: This combination has resulted in my breaking EVERY part in
the drivetrain downstream of the engine.
It will make HUGE torque, and everything must be up to the task, or
you will have many expensive misadventures with breaking things in
inconvenient places. All in good fun though.
I have had a few folks ask how much dough it takes to do this. The
short answer is a LOT. I did my project slowly over
time.......Electromotive got done while it was naturally aspirated.
It made a noticeable improvement over K-Jet.
This is not a project for the weak of spirit or those of us who are
wanting a very straight forward swap. It is a lot of work, and has
made my rallycar what I believe to be one of the most amusing to drive
and watch here in the states.
I went out of my way to NOT keep track of how much dough I have in
this project......Remember......Complete drivetrain, suspension and
brakes to go with this. One must not just bolt in a stoopid fast
engine and expect to not have to attend to stopping or turning at high
speeds. Forgive the soapbox.
Go git 'em guys and gals.
JohnLane.
- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, James Rabin <rabin505@s...> wrote:
> This seems odd to me unless the banks for the engine have separate
intakes. If there's a common intake for all 6 cylinders - it doesn't
matter which side creates what boost - all 6 see the same thing.
>
> If they do separate intakes - then that makes sense - but common
sense would tell me it's a bad idea. You'd need to have a balance
tube to connect the two to avoid that issue.
>
> Volvo Turbo - I didn't see ANY rally car that was competitive that
wasn't running C16 - pump gas at that level of racing just doesn't happen.
>
> 330 HP on 7 psi - the beauty of high compression boosted engines.
Needs much better fuel management, but it's so much more elegant than
low compression big boosted motors for having a nice power curve
that's very drive-able. It has it's limits though - and truly big HP
has to come from the low compression big boost combo. Too much turbo
lag for my taste though. I think a 9:1 N9TE would be sweet with stock
boost levels and a nice programmable ECU.
>
> TTY vs Studs - I think TTY is fine for stock. For performance (big
boost, big HP) I'd go with studs. As for ARP - I've heard they're not
so good. I'd love to do Raceware studs - but the only way I could
afford them is if they can match them to an existing set. If they
have to make them special - it's big $$$.
>
> I really want to try a stud conversion and copper or multi layer
steel head gaskets. There's a company with a CNC water cutter that
will pretty much do anything - price isn't bad - and it pretty much
cuts through anything.
>
> Just my 2 cents though - take it for what it's worth.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Recommended format for your email subject lines:
Model # [Model Letters] Year Subject
Examples:
505 88 V6 Mileage
405 Mi16 89 Ignition Coil source?
To unsubscribe from this list send a blank email message to PEUGEOT-L-UNSUBSCRIBE@EGROUPS.COM
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/peugeot-L/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
peugeot-L-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Received on Wed Aug 17 13:14:41 2005
