Just saw the earlier post, and wanted to add that as
I remember, the solenoid gets 12 volts; so you could
just hook it up to a jumper wire from a B+ source.
Just be sure to hook it up to the B+ source last so
that you don't have a hot wire loose that could touch
a ground. But the best and easiest way is to use a
test light or voltmeter, and check for voltage at the
fuel cut-off solenoid when your problem occurs.
Newer,
electronic fuel injection systems step down voltage
to
lower voltages (usually 5 volts),;but most older
cars'
electrical components usually work with battery
voltage. It's usually easier and less intrusive on
the
car to follow the correct procedures when diagnosing
problems (unless it involves the use of expensive
test
equipment that's not readily available), and anyone
who intends to work on his own car should have a test
light and mutimeter. Both can be purchased cheaply as
suitable meters can be gotten at places like Radio
Shack for very little; and cheap test lights can be
found at places that sell auto tools such as parts
stores. Remember, when you work occasionally on your
own cars, you don't need to have Snap-On quality.
- gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I concur with Mike Aube and my earlier post that
> it's
> probably the ignition switch. Your year does have a
> mechanical fuel pump, but it has an electrical fuel
>
> cut-off solenoid (which is at the back of the
> injection pump and has a 24mm head that we used a
> crow's foot wrench to remove)that shuts down your
> diesel when the key is turned off. Remember, you
> don't
> have an ignition system to cut B+ to in order to
> make
> it shut down.
>
> --- Steven Harris <alternative7man@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > it's an '81
> >
> > gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:,I really
> > shouldn't be answering this because it's
> > been
> > a long time since I worked on these, but the older
> > diesel's fuel pump was mechanical and was part of
> > the
> > injection pump itself; so I'm thinking your
> problem
> > is
> > electrical in nature. When the fuel guage goes to
> > empty, it may be indicative of a more general
> > problem
> > with the electrical system such as a ground
> > connection
> > or something on the fuel guage circuit OR maybe
> the
> > ignition switch which may be deactivating the fuel
>
> > cut-off solenoid. The later systems with the air
> > flow
> >
> > meter I never got to work on, so that may be
> another
> > story all together. It would be good to know the
> > year.
> >
> > --- Steven wrote:
> >
> > > Hi, I have the opportunity to get an early '80's
> > 505
> > > diesel (turbo I
> > > think) at just above scrap price. THe owner says
> > it
> > > will run and drive
> > > but the fuel gage will suddenly fall to empty
> and
> > > them the engine dies
> > > like it's run out of fuel. Would this be a relay
> > > problem or fuel pump?
> > > Steven
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
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Received on Sun Aug 21 11:11:43 2005
