Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about that bushing. The
rack is moving excessively for sure.
Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I get the already
flared line through the fitting?
Now I should mention that I needed to drive this car today (yesterday)
so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands fix was and before
anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will admit as much myself. I
just took a rubber oring and pulled that over the flared end so that
Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my mind was that if the
oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the fluid would have no
wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided to put some silicone
on the threads to further seal it. Quite possibly some teflon paste
or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure that it is leaking a
bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose all the fluid in the
pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so it has slowed it down
significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be able to answer until
I have a look at her again in the AM.
OnThanks for the help guys...
-Tony
Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another one of my cars
running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:
> That line can be bought already made up at many parts
> parts stores in different lengths and gently bent to
> fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a special
> flare kit that even Snap-On only made avaialable a few
> years ago, and making flares that seal properly is
> very
> difficult. Many years ago when I bought a double flare
> kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of money as
> it
> was extremely difficult to make one that wouldn't
> leak;
> and he was completely correct. Buy one already made up
> and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut, hold the
> line so that it doesn't put pressure on the flare nut
> as you're trying to start it so that you can tell if
> it's going in easily or not. Always start it by hand,
> and I've found it pays to look at it carefully to see
> if it's going in square or not-that is, does it line
> up
> properly with the part it's threading in to and is it
> perpendicular to the female hole you're threading
> into?
> Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to look at
> it as you're threading it in. When you start to use
> the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it becomes
> hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> somewhat, you can buy another line and file the
> fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a tap and
> taper the end;
> and then you can use it like a tap to clean up the
> threads. The other thing is to pull the line all the
> way up to the fitting so that you don't have the line
> already in the hole interfering with the position of
> the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
>
>
> --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
>
> > The usual is that the steel line is cracked just as
> > it emerges from the fitting
> > this has happened ususally because the bushing in
> > the left end of the ram is
> > is all spungo and the ram is moving exceessively
> > eventually cracking the line
> >
> > It is an ugly job because you have to replace the
> > ram bushing
> > as well as the steel line
> > It may well be that it all has to come out of the
> > car
> > There is no point in buying a new steel line from
> > Peugeot becaause they just send
> > a straight piece which you can easily make with a
> > piece of steel line and a bubble
> > flaring tool
> > Disortex or Brian Holm should have the ram bushing
> > which you can pull in with a piece of threaded rod
> > and a some sockets and washers
> >
> > The toughest part of the job is getting the steel
> > lines threading into the pinion valve
> > BE CAREFUL it is really easy to cross thread the
> > steel fitting into the aluminum
> > valve body
> >
> > It is an aweful job I've done it a few times and it
> > never gets easier
> >
> > Sell me the car
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tony O
> > To: Peugeot-L
> > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:35 AM
> > Subject: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86
> > 505TD
> >
> >
> > I have a pretty bad leak coming from the lines.
> > Please forgive my
> > lack of proper terminology, but I have managed to
> > locate the exact
> > leak point. It is coming from the jic (???)
> > fitting on the pipe that
> > connects the power steering gear to the rack. I
> > think it's the supply
> > side. I'm not really sure how to properly seal
> > this thing since I
> > think it's the fitting and not the threads that is
> > supposed to seal.
> > This pipe with two male JIC ends is very similar
> > to the clutch slave
> > pipe on my saabs that has given me so much trouble
> > over the years. I
> > don't know what caused the leak as it came on
> > fairly suddenly. I'm
> > guessing that it is just continued stress from
> > over the years as I
> > notice that the rack has a little play (by
> > design?) and the lines to
> > get some tension on them.
> >
> > Can anyone give me some advice, either temporary
> > fix or permanent. I
> > will need the car tomorrow so if I can't seal it
> > properly, then I will
> > probably just undo the power steering pump belt so
> > that I won't
> > destroy it. I've posted a couple pics on my site
> > just to show the
> > items in question. They can be seen here:
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.santacruzbiofuel.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=New-Pug-86-505TD
> >
> > oh yeah, is there compatibility between the gas
> > and diesel models for
> > both racks, pumps, steering gears...any of it? I
> > happen to have an 85
> > 505td that has IP problems so I could pull the
> > parts off of that
> > temporarily until I can hit the pick n pull.
> >
> > thanks in advance for any help.
> > -Tony
> >
> >
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Received on Sat Aug 27 03:46:26 2005
