Those already made up lines have the fittings on the
lines. They come in straight segments of different
lengths with fittings already on both ends. They're
in the brake line section, but they're the same thing;
and all you have to do is bend them to fit.
- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> that bushing. The
> rack is moving excessively for sure.
>
> Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I get
> the already
> flared line through the fitting?
>
> Now I should mention that I needed to drive this car
> today (yesterday)
> so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands fix
> was and before
> anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will admit
> as much myself. I
> just took a rubber oring and pulled that over the
> flared end so that
> Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my mind
> was that if the
> oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> fluid would have no
> wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided to
> put some silicone
> on the threads to further seal it. Quite possibly
> some teflon paste
> or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure that
> it is leaking a
> bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose all
> the fluid in the
> pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so it
> has slowed it down
> significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> able to answer until
> I have a look at her again in the AM.
>
OnOn
> Thanks for the help guys...
> -Tony
>
> Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another one of
> my cars
> running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
>
> On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > That line can be bought already made up at many
> parts
> > parts stores in different lengths and gently bent
> to
> > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> special
> > flare kit that even Snap-On only made avaialable a
> few
> > years ago, and making flares that seal properly is
> > very
> > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a double
> flare
> > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of money
> as
> > it
> > was extremely difficult to make one that wouldn't
> > leak;
> > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> made up
> > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut, hold
> the
> > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the flare
> nut
> > as you're trying to start it so that you can tell
> if
> > it's going in easily or not. Always start it by
> hand,
> > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully to
> see
> > if it's going in square or not-that is, does it
> line
> > up
> > properly with the part it's threading in to and is
> it
> > perpendicular to the female hole you're threading
> > into?
> > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> look at
> > it as you're threading it in. When you start to
> use
> > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> becomes
> > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > somewhat, you can buy another line and file the
> > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a tap
> and
> > taper the end;
> > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up the
> > threads. The other thing is to pull the line all
> the
> > way up to the fitting so that you don't have the
> line
> > already in the hole interfering with the position
> of
> > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> >
> >
> > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> >
> > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked just
> as
> > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > this has happened ususally because the bushing
> in
> > > the left end of the ram is
> > > is all spungo and the ram is moving exceessively
> > > eventually cracking the line
> > >
> > > It is an ugly job because you have to replace
> the
> > > ram bushing
> > > as well as the steel line
> > > It may well be that it all has to come out of
> the
> > > car
> > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> from
> > > Peugeot becaause they just send
> > > a straight piece which you can easily make with
> a
> > > piece of steel line and a bubble
> > > flaring tool
> > > Disortex or Brian Holm should have the ram
> bushing
> > > which you can pull in with a piece of threaded
> rod
> > > and a some sockets and washers
> > >
> > > The toughest part of the job is getting the
> steel
> > > lines threading into the pinion valve
> > > BE CAREFUL it is really easy to cross thread the
> > > steel fitting into the aluminum
> > > valve body
> > >
> > > It is an aweful job I've done it a few times and
> it
> > > never gets easier
> > >
> > > Sell me the car
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Tony O
> > > To: Peugeot-L
> > > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:35 AM
> > > Subject: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86
> > > 505TD
> > >
> > >
> > > I have a pretty bad leak coming from the
> lines.
> > > Please forgive my
> > > lack of proper terminology, but I have managed
> to
> > > locate the exact
> > > leak point. It is coming from the jic (???)
> > > fitting on the pipe that
> > > connects the power steering gear to the rack.
> I
> > > think it's the supply
> > > side. I'm not really sure how to properly
> seal
> > > this thing since I
> > > think it's the fitting and not the threads
> that is
> > > supposed to seal.
> > > This pipe with two male JIC ends is very
> similar
> > > to the clutch slave
> > > pipe on my saabs that has given me so much
> trouble
> > > over the years. I
> > > don't know what caused the leak as it came on
> > > fairly suddenly. I'm
> > > guessing that it is just continued stress from
> > > over the years as I
> > > notice that the rack has a little play (by
> > > design?) and the lines to
> > > get some tension on them.
> > >
> > > Can anyone give me some advice, either
> temporary
> > > fix or permanent. I
> > > will need the car tomorrow so if I can't seal
> it
> > > properly, then I will
> > > probably just undo the power steering pump
> belt so
> > > that I won't
> > > destroy it. I've posted a couple pics on my
> site
> > > just to show the
> > > items in question. They can be seen here:
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Sun Aug 28 22:59:46 2005
