Is the fitting so different as to be unavailable with
the already made up lines? I know I've found European
sizes for BMWs and Alfas. The double flare is a
regular
concave flare that's flared over itself to be thicker.
The bubble or inverse flare is a convex flare.
- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> You have to remove the old line
> cut the fittings off it and make up a new line
> Maybe copper will hold the pressure if so it would
> sure be easier to bend
>
> You have to bend the new line to match the shape of
> the old line as closely as possible
> because you have to be able to start the threads by
> hand NO WRENCHES
> So it has to be bent really close
> First time I had to do it I ordered the line from
> Peugeot thinking they would sell it bent
> to the exact shape HA Fat Chance swindled again like
> $30 for a piece of steel tubing less than a foot
> long.
>
> I can't remember whether the tube is double flared
> ie inverted flare or bubble flare like
> the brake lines.
> I bought the bubble flaring tool kit from Snap on
> for about $100 because of the brake lines
> but I've been told that an inverted double flare
> will seal in a bubble's place
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tony O
> To: gary freeman
> Cc: Bob Bruce ; Peugeot-L
> Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 5:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86
> 505TD
>
>
> Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> that bushing. The
> rack is moving excessively for sure.
>
> Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I
> get the already
> flared line through the fitting?
>
> Now I should mention that I needed to drive this
> car today (yesterday)
> so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands fix
> was and before
> anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will admit
> as much myself. I
> just took a rubber oring and pulled that over the
> flared end so that
> Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my mind
> was that if the
> oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> fluid would have no
> wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided
> to put some silicone
> on the threads to further seal it. Quite possibly
> some teflon paste
> or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure
> that it is leaking a
> bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose all
> the fluid in the
> pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so
> it has slowed it down
> significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> able to answer until
> I have a look at her again in the AM.
>
On
> Thanks for the help guys...
> -Tony
>
> Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another one
> of my cars
> running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
>
> On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > That line can be bought already made up at many
> parts
> > parts stores in different lengths and gently
> bent to
> > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> special
> > flare kit that even Snap-On only made avaialable
> a few
> > years ago, and making flares that seal properly
> is
> > very
> > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a double
> flare
> > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of
> money as
> > it
> > was extremely difficult to make one that
> wouldn't
> > leak;
> > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> made up
> > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut,
> hold the
> > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the
> flare nut
> > as you're trying to start it so that you can
> tell if
> > it's going in easily or not. Always start it by
> hand,
> > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully
> to see
> > if it's going in square or not-that is, does it
> line
> > up
> > properly with the part it's threading in to and
> is it
> > perpendicular to the female hole you're
> threading
> > into?
> > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> look at
> > it as you're threading it in. When you start to
> use
> > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> becomes
> > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > somewhat, you can buy another line and file the
> > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a tap
> and
> > taper the end;
> > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up
> the
> > threads. The other thing is to pull the line all
> the
> > way up to the fitting so that you don't have the
> line
> > already in the hole interfering with the
> position of
> > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> >
> >
> > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> >
> > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked
> just as
> > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > this has happened ususally because the bushing
> in
> > > the left end of the ram is
> > > is all spungo and the ram is moving
> exceessively
> > > eventually cracking the line
> > >
> > > It is an ugly job because you have to replace
> the
> > > ram bushing
> > > as well as the steel line
> > > It may well be that it all has to come out of
> the
> > > car
> > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> from
> > > Peugeot becaause they just send
> > > a straight piece which you can easily make
> with a
> > > piece of steel line and a bubble
> > > flaring tool
> > > Disortex or Brian Holm should have the ram
> bushing
> > > which you can pull in with a piece of threaded
> rod
> > > and a some sockets and washers
> > >
> > > The toughest part of the job is getting the
> steel
> > > lines threading into the pinion valve
> > > BE CAREFUL it is really easy to cross thread
> the
> > > steel fitting into the aluminum
> > > valve body
> > >
> > > It is an aweful job I've done it a few times
> and it
> > > never gets easier
> > >
> > > Sell me the car
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Tony O
> > > To: Peugeot-L
> > > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:35 AM
> > > Subject: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on
> 86
> > > 505TD
> > >
> > >
> > > I have a pretty bad leak coming from the
> lines.
> > > Please forgive my
> > > lack of proper terminology, but I have
> managed to
> > > locate the exact
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Sun Aug 28 23:11:49 2005
