On most cars with power steering (don't know for sure
about Peugeot), you can damage the system by driving
it with the pump disconnected.
- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yeah.
>
> I saw them at the local Kragen autoparts today, the
> problem is they
> don't have metric sizes. Also does anyone know the
> actual metric?
> size of the lines and also the thread pitch of the
> fittings? I'm
> going to try calling a few places tomorrow to see if
> I can't track
> some down before I have to hit the pick n pull. The
> leak was so bad
> today that I eventually gave up and just cut the
> power steering belt.
> Man, my biceps are going to be huge if I don't get
> this fixed soon.
> Driving a decent size sedan isn't like driving one
> of those little
OnOn
> japanese cars without power steering...it takes a
> bit more strength.
>
> Also, how about compatibility between models? do the
> gas power
> steering racks fit the diesels and what yrs are the
> same, in case the
> pick n pull becomes a necessity.
>
> thanks again guys...
> -Tony
>
> On 8/28/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > Those already made up lines have the fittings on
> the
> > lines. They come in straight segments of different
> > lengths with fittings already on both ends.
> They're
> > in the brake line section, but they're the same
> thing;
> > and all you have to do is bend them to fit.
> >
> > --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> > > that bushing. The
> > > rack is moving excessively for sure.
> > >
> > > Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I
> get
> > > the already
> > > flared line through the fitting?
> > >
> > > Now I should mention that I needed to drive this
> car
> > > today (yesterday)
> > > so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands
> fix
> > > was and before
> > > anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will
> admit
> > > as much myself. I
> > > just took a rubber oring and pulled that over
> the
> > > flared end so that
> > > Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my
> mind
> > > was that if the
> > > oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> > > fluid would have no
> > > wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided
> to
> > > put some silicone
> > > on the threads to further seal it. Quite
> possibly
> > > some teflon paste
> > > or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure
> that
> > > it is leaking a
> > > bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose
> all
> > > the fluid in the
> > > pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so
> it
> > > has slowed it down
> > > significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> > > able to answer until
> > > I have a look at her again in the AM.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the help guys...
> > > -Tony
> > >
> > > Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another
> one of
> > > my cars
> > > running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
> > >
> > > On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > > That line can be bought already made up at
> many
> > > parts
> > > > parts stores in different lengths and gently
> bent
> > > to
> > > > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> > > special
> > > > flare kit that even Snap-On only made
> avaialable a
> > > few
> > > > years ago, and making flares that seal
> properly is
> > > > very
> > > > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a
> double
> > > flare
> > > > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of
> money
> > > as
> > > > it
> > > > was extremely difficult to make one that
> wouldn't
> > > > leak;
> > > > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> > > made up
> > > > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut,
> hold
> > > the
> > > > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the
> flare
> > > nut
> > > > as you're trying to start it so that you can
> tell
> > > if
> > > > it's going in easily or not. Always start it
> by
> > > hand,
> > > > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully
> to
> > > see
> > > > if it's going in square or not-that is, does
> it
> > > line
> > > > up
> > > > properly with the part it's threading in to
> and is
> > > it
> > > > perpendicular to the female hole you're
> threading
> > > > into?
> > > > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> > > look at
> > > > it as you're threading it in. When you start
> to
> > > use
> > > > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> > > becomes
> > > > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > > > somewhat, you can buy another line and file
> the
> > > > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a
> tap
> > > and
> > > > taper the end;
> > > > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up
> the
> > > > threads. The other thing is to pull the line
> all
> > > the
> > > > way up to the fitting so that you don't have
> the
> > > line
> > > > already in the hole interfering with the
> position
> > > of
> > > > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked
> just
> > > as
> > > > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > > > this has happened ususally because the
> bushing
> > > in
> > > > > the left end of the ram is
> > > > > is all spungo and the ram is moving
> exceessively
> > > > > eventually cracking the line
> > > > >
> > > > > It is an ugly job because you have to
> replace
> > > the
> > > > > ram bushing
> > > > > as well as the steel line
> > > > > It may well be that it all has to come out
> of
> > > the
> > > > > car
> > > > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Sun Aug 28 23:36:56 2005
