Re: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86 505TD

From: Tony O <bonesinsc_at_gmail.com>
Date: 08/28/05

OnHmm...I sure hope not. The only reason I cut the belt was because, I figured running the pump dry would certainly destroy the pump. I guess I need to make this even more of a priority than I thought.

On 8/28/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On most cars with power steering (don't know for sure
> about Peugeot), you can damage the system by driving
> it with the pump disconnected.
>
> --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yeah.
> >
> > I saw them at the local Kragen autoparts today, the
> > problem is they
> > don't have metric sizes. Also does anyone know the
> > actual metric?
> > size of the lines and also the thread pitch of the
> > fittings? I'm
> > going to try calling a few places tomorrow to see if
> > I can't track
> > some down before I have to hit the pick n pull. The
> > leak was so bad
> > today that I eventually gave up and just cut the
> > power steering belt.
> > Man, my biceps are going to be huge if I don't get
> > this fixed soon.
> > Driving a decent size sedan isn't like driving one
> > of those little
> > japanese cars without power steering...it takes a
> > bit more strength.
> >
> > Also, how about compatibility between models? do the
> > gas power
> > steering racks fit the diesels and what yrs are the
> > same, in case the
> > pick n pull becomes a necessity.
> >
> > thanks again guys...
> > -Tony
> >
> > On 8/28/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > > Those already made up lines have the fittings on
> > the
> > > lines. They come in straight segments of different
> > > lengths with fittings already on both ends.
> > They're
> > > in the brake line section, but they're the same
> > thing;
> > > and all you have to do is bend them to fit.
> > >
> > > --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> > > > that bushing. The
> > > > rack is moving excessively for sure.
> > > >
> > > > Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I
> > get
> > > > the already
> > > > flared line through the fitting?
> > > >
> > > > Now I should mention that I needed to drive this
> > car
> > > > today (yesterday)
> > > > so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands
> > fix
> > > > was and before
> > > > anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will
> > admit
> > > > as much myself. I
> > > > just took a rubber oring and pulled that over
> > the
> > > > flared end so that
> > > > Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my
> > mind
> > > > was that if the
> > > > oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> > > > fluid would have no
> > > > wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided
> > to
> > > > put some silicone
> > > > on the threads to further seal it. Quite
> > possibly
> > > > some teflon paste
> > > > or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure
> > that
> > > > it is leaking a
> > > > bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose
> > all
> > > > the fluid in the
> > > > pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so
> > it
> > > > has slowed it down
> > > > significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> > > > able to answer until
> > > > I have a look at her again in the AM.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the help guys...
> > > > -Tony
> > > >
> > > > Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another
> > one of
> > > > my cars
> > > > running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
> > > >
> > > > On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > That line can be bought already made up at
> > many
> > > > parts
> > > > > parts stores in different lengths and gently
> > bent
> > > > to
> > > > > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> > > > special
> > > > > flare kit that even Snap-On only made
> > avaialable a
> > > > few
> > > > > years ago, and making flares that seal
> > properly is
> > > > > very
> > > > > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a
> > double
> > > > flare
> > > > > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of
> > money
> > > > as
> > > > > it
> > > > > was extremely difficult to make one that
> > wouldn't
> > > > > leak;
> > > > > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> > > > made up
> > > > > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut,
> > hold
> > > > the
> > > > > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the
> > flare
> > > > nut
> > > > > as you're trying to start it so that you can
> > tell
> > > > if
> > > > > it's going in easily or not. Always start it
> > by
> > > > hand,
> > > > > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully
> > to
> > > > see
> > > > > if it's going in square or not-that is, does
> > it
> > > > line
> > > > > up
> > > > > properly with the part it's threading in to
> > and is
> > > > it
> > > > > perpendicular to the female hole you're
> > threading
> > > > > into?
> > > > > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> > > > look at
> > > > > it as you're threading it in. When you start
> > to
> > > > use
> > > > > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> > > > becomes
> > > > > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > > > > somewhat, you can buy another line and file
> > the
> > > > > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a
> > tap
> > > > and
> > > > > taper the end;
> > > > > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up
> > the
> > > > > threads. The other thing is to pull the line
> > all
> > > > the
> > > > > way up to the fitting so that you don't have
> > the
> > > > line
> > > > > already in the hole interfering with the
> > position
> > > > of
> > > > > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked
> > just
> > > > as
> > > > > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > > > > this has happened ususally because the
> > bushing
> > > > in
> > > > > > the left end of the ram is
> > > > > > is all spungo and the ram is moving
> > exceessively
> > > > > > eventually cracking the line
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It is an ugly job because you have to
> > replace
> > > > the
> > > > > > ram bushing
> > > > > > as well as the steel line
> > > > > > It may well be that it all has to come out
> > of
> > > > the
> > > > > > car
> > > > > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
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    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/   Received on Sun Aug 28 23:56:32 2005