The system will not be damaged by not having power steering, it just reverts
back to a standard rack and pinion assembly. Don't drive it with the lines
off though, if dirt and dust gets in there, then you will damage the parts
internally and be stuck with standard steering. The lines are 8mm or 5/16
and not hard to bubble flare if someone has the proper good quality tools.
Almost impossible to flare properly with cheap tools.
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary freeman" <riven2649@yahoo.com>
To: "Tony O" <bonesinsc@gmail.com>; <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 2:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86 505TD
> On most cars with power steering (don't know for sure
> about Peugeot), you can damage the system by driving
> it with the pump disconnected.
>
> --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yeah.
> >
> > I saw them at the local Kragen autoparts today, the
> > problem is they
> > don't have metric sizes. Also does anyone know the
> > actual metric?
> > size of the lines and also the thread pitch of the
> > fittings? I'm
> > going to try calling a few places tomorrow to see if
> > I can't track
> > some down before I have to hit the pick n pull. The
> > leak was so bad
> > today that I eventually gave up and just cut the
> > power steering belt.
> > Man, my biceps are going to be huge if I don't get
> > this fixed soon.
> > Driving a decent size sedan isn't like driving one
> > of those little
> > japanese cars without power steering...it takes a
> > bit more strength.
> >
> > Also, how about compatibility between models? do the
> > gas power
> > steering racks fit the diesels and what yrs are the
> > same, in case the
> > pick n pull becomes a necessity.
> >
> > thanks again guys...
> > -Tony
> >
> > On 8/28/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > > Those already made up lines have the fittings on
> > the
> > > lines. They come in straight segments of different
> > > lengths with fittings already on both ends.
> > They're
> > > in the brake line section, but they're the same
> > thing;
> > > and all you have to do is bend them to fit.
> > >
> > > --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> > > > that bushing. The
> > > > rack is moving excessively for sure.
> > > >
> > > > Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I
> > get
> > > > the already
> > > > flared line through the fitting?
> > > >
> > > > Now I should mention that I needed to drive this
> > car
> > > > today (yesterday)
> > > > so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands
> > fix
> > > > was and before
> > > > anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will
> > admit
> > > > as much myself. I
> > > > just took a rubber oring and pulled that over
> > the
> > > > flared end so that
> > > > Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my
> > mind
> > > > was that if the
> > > > oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> > > > fluid would have no
> > > > wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided
> > to
> > > > put some silicone
> > > > on the threads to further seal it. Quite
> > possibly
> > > > some teflon paste
> > > > or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure
> > that
> > > > it is leaking a
> > > > bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose
> > all
> > > > the fluid in the
> > > > pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so
> > it
> > > > has slowed it down
> > > > significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> > > > able to answer until
> > > > I have a look at her again in the AM.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the help guys...
> > > > -Tony
> > > >
> > > > Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another
> > one of
> > > > my cars
> > > > running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
> > > >
> > > > On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > That line can be bought already made up at
> > many
> > > > parts
> > > > > parts stores in different lengths and gently
> > bent
> > > > to
> > > > > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> > > > special
> > > > > flare kit that even Snap-On only made
> > avaialable a
> > > > few
> > > > > years ago, and making flares that seal
> > properly is
> > > > > very
> > > > > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a
> > double
> > > > flare
> > > > > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of
> > money
> > > > as
> > > > > it
> > > > > was extremely difficult to make one that
> > wouldn't
> > > > > leak;
> > > > > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> > > > made up
> > > > > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut,
> > hold
> > > > the
> > > > > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the
> > flare
> > > > nut
> > > > > as you're trying to start it so that you can
> > tell
> > > > if
> > > > > it's going in easily or not. Always start it
> > by
> > > > hand,
> > > > > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully
> > to
> > > > see
> > > > > if it's going in square or not-that is, does
> > it
> > > > line
> > > > > up
> > > > > properly with the part it's threading in to
> > and is
> > > > it
> > > > > perpendicular to the female hole you're
> > threading
> > > > > into?
> > > > > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> > > > look at
> > > > > it as you're threading it in. When you start
> > to
> > > > use
> > > > > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> > > > becomes
> > > > > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > > > > somewhat, you can buy another line and file
> > the
> > > > > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a
> > tap
> > > > and
> > > > > taper the end;
> > > > > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up
> > the
> > > > > threads. The other thing is to pull the line
> > all
> > > > the
> > > > > way up to the fitting so that you don't have
> > the
> > > > line
> > > > > already in the hole interfering with the
> > position
> > > > of
> > > > > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked
> > just
> > > > as
> > > > > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > > > > this has happened ususally because the
> > bushing
> > > > in
> > > > > > the left end of the ram is
> > > > > > is all spungo and the ram is moving
> > exceessively
> > > > > > eventually cracking the line
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It is an ugly job because you have to
> > replace
> > > > the
> > > > > > ram bushing
> > > > > > as well as the steel line
> > > > > > It may well be that it all has to come out
> > of
> > > > the
> > > > > > car
> > > > > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
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Received on Mon Aug 29 05:12:19 2005
