I guess whether the fittings are metric thread is the $50,000 question for
me. I just did a bit of ressearch and called the local napa. Apparently GM
switched to the bubble (ISO bubble) flaring in the their brake lines in the
mid 80's so finding them premade shouldn't be a problem. When I called Napa,
I got someone who didn't seem all that knowledgable, he said they had bubble
flared lines, but didn't have metric sizes though I be willing to bet if I
said for GM cars, he might say yes. I also just called Miles at western
hemispheres inquiring about the bushing for the rack and was wondering if
anyone knows the *official* name for these things as my lack of proper
terminology (stuff) seems to hinder my trying to order these sort of things.
Are these the bushings that go on the end of the rack (are they the ONLY
bushings on the rack)? Strangely, Jacques used to be quite good at getting
what he needed out of me despite my lack of french :)
also, thanks for confirming it was ok to cut the belt, now I can drive it
without feeling that impending doom is coming...
oh and one more thing, can anyone confirm compatibilty of racks with petrol
models or even the tubing?
as always, your help is much appreciated
On 8/28/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Is the fitting so different as to be unavailable with
> the already made up lines? I know I've found European
> sizes for BMWs and Alfas. The double flare is a
> regular
> concave flare that's flared over itself to be thicker.
> The bubble or inverse flare is a convex flare.
>
> --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
>
> > You have to remove the old line
> > cut the fittings off it and make up a new line
> > Maybe copper will hold the pressure if so it would
> > sure be easier to bend
> >
> > You have to bend the new line to match the shape of
> > the old line as closely as possible
> > because you have to be able to start the threads by
> > hand NO WRENCHES
> > So it has to be bent really close
> > First time I had to do it I ordered the line from
> > Peugeot thinking they would sell it bent
> > to the exact shape HA Fat Chance swindled again like
> > $30 for a piece of steel tubing less than a foot
> > long.
> >
> > I can't remember whether the tube is double flared
> > ie inverted flare or bubble flare like
> > the brake lines.
> > I bought the bubble flaring tool kit from Snap on
> > for about $100 because of the brake lines
> > but I've been told that an inverted double flare
> > will seal in a bubble's place
> >
> > Bob
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tony O
> > To: gary freeman
> > Cc: Bob Bruce ; Peugeot-L
> > Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 5:45 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86
> > 505TD
> >
> >
> > Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> > that bushing. The
> > rack is moving excessively for sure.
> >
> > Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I
> > get the already
> > flared line through the fitting?
> >
> > Now I should mention that I needed to drive this
> > car today (yesterday)
> > so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands fix
> > was and before
> > anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will admit
> > as much myself. I
> > just took a rubber oring and pulled that over the
> > flared end so that
> > Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my mind
> > was that if the
> > oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> > fluid would have no
> > wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided
> > to put some silicone
> > on the threads to further seal it. Quite possibly
> > some teflon paste
> > or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure
> > that it is leaking a
> > bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose all
> > the fluid in the
> > pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so
> > it has slowed it down
> > significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> > able to answer until
> > I have a look at her again in the AM.
> >
> > Thanks for the help guys...
> > -Tony
> >
> > Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another one
> > of my cars
> > running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
> >
> > On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > > That line can be bought already made up at many
> > parts
> > > parts stores in different lengths and gently
> > bent to
> > > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> > special
> > > flare kit that even Snap-On only made avaialable
> > a few
> > > years ago, and making flares that seal properly
> > is
> > > very
> > > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a double
> > flare
> > > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of
> > money as
> > > it
> > > was extremely difficult to make one that
> > wouldn't
> > > leak;
> > > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> > made up
> > > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut,
> > hold the
> > > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the
> > flare nut
> > > as you're trying to start it so that you can
> > tell if
> > > it's going in easily or not. Always start it by
> > hand,
> > > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully
> > to see
> > > if it's going in square or not-that is, does it
> > line
> > > up
> > > properly with the part it's threading in to and
> > is it
> > > perpendicular to the female hole you're
> > threading
> > > into?
> > > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> > look at
> > > it as you're threading it in. When you start to
> > use
> > > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> > becomes
> > > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > > somewhat, you can buy another line and file the
> > > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a tap
> > and
> > > taper the end;
> > > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up
> > the
> > > threads. The other thing is to pull the line all
> > the
> > > way up to the fitting so that you don't have the
> > line
> > > already in the hole interfering with the
> > position of
> > > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked
> > just as
> > > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > > this has happened ususally because the bushing
> > in
> > > > the left end of the ram is
> > > > is all spungo and the ram is moving
> > exceessively
> > > > eventually cracking the line
> > > >
> > > > It is an ugly job because you have to replace
> > the
> > > > ram bushing
> > > > as well as the steel line
> > > > It may well be that it all has to come out of
> > the
> > > > car
> > > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> > from
> > > > Peugeot becaause they just send
> > > > a straight piece which you can easily make
> > with a
> > > > piece of steel line and a bubble
> > > > flaring tool
> > > > Disortex or Brian Holm should have the ram
> > bushing
> > > > which you can pull in with a piece of threaded
> > rod
> > > > and a some sockets and washers
> > > >
> > > > The toughest part of the job is getting the
> > steel
> > > > lines threading into the pinion valve
> > > > BE CAREFUL it is really easy to cross thread
> > the
> > > > steel fitting into the aluminum
> > > > valve body
> > > >
> > > > It is an aweful job I've done it a few times
> > and it
> > > > never gets easier
> > > >
> > > > Sell me the car
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Tony O
> > > > To: Peugeot-L
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:35 AM
> > > > Subject: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on
> > 86
> > > > 505TD
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I have a pretty bad leak coming from the
> > lines.
> > > > Please forgive my
> > > > lack of proper terminology, but I have
> > managed to
> > > > locate the exact
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
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Received on Mon Aug 29 15:17:16 2005