I can think of 105 rea$ons not to buy that Snap on tool and do my own hose
ends ;-o
Several people have said that cheap flaring sets won't work and to be
honest, I don't like buying tools that I will only use once...especially
expensive ones. There are lots of tools I really need/want that will get
much more use, but I do appreciate the advice. I think I will be hitting the
local pick n pull tomorrow after I drop off a friend at the airport. If that
turns out to be fruitless than I will try to use the ends from lines
purchased at local auto parts store and get some compression fittings and
just connect them together. I will of course hit the local hose shop and see
that they have high pressure compression fittings and who knows, maybe I can
get them to let me use there flaring tool instead. I go in there often and
know a couple of the clerks. Also, I believe Brian Holm has rebuilt racks
for not much more than a nice flaring tool.
I will let everyone know what the final solution is so that someone can
avoid this dilemna in the future.
thanks again.
-Tony
ps will report back on peugeots in the san jose pick n pulls, if there are
any.
On 8/29/05, Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
>
> There are no brake lines made up with 12 mm fittings that I have ever seen
> Either buy new used or make up new ones using the old ends and steel or
> copper
> tubing
> One tube is 8mm or 5/16 and the other is 10 mm or 3/8
> A hose shop should have a bubble flaring tool or you can buy one from
> Snap on
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> *To:* Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> ; peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
> *Sent:* Monday, August 29, 2005 12:59 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86 505TD
>
> Those already made up lines have the fittings on the
> lines. They come in straight segments of different
> lengths with fittings already on both ends. They're
> in the brake line section, but they're the same thing;
> and all you have to do is bend them to fit.
>
> --- Tony O <bonesinsc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks guys...great advice. You are right about
> > that bushing. The
> > rack is moving excessively for sure.
> >
> > Only one question comes to mind...gary, how do I get
> > the already
> > flared line through the fitting?
> >
> > Now I should mention that I needed to drive this car
> > today (yesterday)
> > so here is what my bubble gum and rubber bands fix
> > was and before
> > anyone tells me it was a stupid idea, I will admit
> > as much myself. I
> > just took a rubber oring and pulled that over the
> > flared end so that
> > Iand in between the fitting. The idea in my mind
> > was that if the
> > oring sealed the threads of the fitting then the
> > fluid would have no
> > wear to go but through the pipe. I also decided to
> > put some silicone
> > on the threads to further seal it. Quite possibly
> > some teflon paste
> > or threadlock might have been better. I'm sure that
> > it is leaking a
> > bit but all that I know is that I didn't lose all
> > the fluid in the
> > pump resevoir as I had the two previous days, so it
> > has slowed it down
> > significantly....how much? Somethign I won't be
> > able to answer until
> > I have a look at her again in the AM.
> >
> > Thanks for the help guys...
> > -Tony
> >
> > Bob, I can't sell the car until I get another one of
> > my cars
> > running...(3 deadbeats - 2 saabs and 1 peugeot)
> >
> > On 8/27/05, gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > > That line can be bought already made up at many
> > parts
> > > parts stores in different lengths and gently bent
> > to
> > > fit. That bubble (or inverse flare) needs a
> > special
> > > flare kit that even Snap-On only made avaialable a
> > few
> > > years ago, and making flares that seal properly is
> > > very
> > > difficult. Many years ago when I bought a double
> > flare
> > > kit, my machinist told me it was a waste of money
> > as
> > > it
> > > was extremely difficult to make one that wouldn't
> > > leak;
> > > and he was completely correct. Buy one already
> > made up
> > > and bend to fit. When starting the flare nut, hold
> > the
> > > line so that it doesn't put pressure on the flare
> > nut
> > > as you're trying to start it so that you can tell
> > if
> > > it's going in easily or not. Always start it by
> > hand,
> > > and I've found it pays to look at it carefully to
> > see
> > > if it's going in square or not-that is, does it
> > line
> > > up
> > > properly with the part it's threading in to and is
> > it
> > > perpendicular to the female hole you're threading
> > > into?
> > > Be patient and careful, and don't be afraid to
> > look at
> > > it as you're threading it in. When you start to
> > use
> > > the wrench, go slowly and don't force it if it
> > becomes
> > > hard.If you have messed up the female threads
> > > somewhat, you can buy another line and file the
> > > fitting with grooves every 90 degrees like a tap
> > and
> > > taper the end;
> > > and then you can use it like a tap to clean up the
> > > threads. The other thing is to pull the line all
> > the
> > > way up to the fitting so that you don't have the
> > line
> > > already in the hole interfering with the position
> > of
> > > the male fitting as you're trying to start it.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > The usual is that the steel line is cracked just
> > as
> > > > it emerges from the fitting
> > > > this has happened ususally because the bushing
> > in
> > > > the left end of the ram is
> > > > is all spungo and the ram is moving exceessively
> > > > eventually cracking the line
> > > >
> > > > It is an ugly job because you have to replace
> > the
> > > > ram bushing
> > > > as well as the steel line
> > > > It may well be that it all has to come out of
> > the
> > > > car
> > > > There is no point in buying a new steel line
> > from
> > > > Peugeot becaause they just send
> > > > a straight piece which you can easily make with
> > a
> > > > piece of steel line and a bubble
> > > > flaring tool
> > > > Disortex or Brian Holm should have the ram
> > bushing
> > > > which you can pull in with a piece of threaded
> > rod
> > > > and a some sockets and washers
> > > >
> > > > The toughest part of the job is getting the
> > steel
> > > > lines threading into the pinion valve
> > > > BE CAREFUL it is really easy to cross thread the
> > > > steel fitting into the aluminum
> > > > valve body
> > > >
> > > > It is an aweful job I've done it a few times and
> > it
> > > > never gets easier
> > > >
> > > > Sell me the car
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Tony O
> > > > To: Peugeot-L
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:35 AM
> > > > Subject: [Peugeot-L] Power steering leak on 86
> > > > 505TD
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I have a pretty bad leak coming from the
> > lines.
> > > > Please forgive my
> > > > lack of proper terminology, but I have managed
> > to
> > > > locate the exact
> > > > leak point. It is coming from the jic (???)
> > > > fitting on the pipe that
> > > > connects the power steering gear to the rack.
> > I
> > > > think it's the supply
> > > > side. I'm not really sure how to properly
> > seal
> > > > this thing since I
> > > > think it's the fitting and not the threads
> > that is
> > > > supposed to seal.
> > > > This pipe with two male JIC ends is very
> > similar
> > > > to the clutch slave
> > > > pipe on my saabs that has given me so much
> > trouble
> > > > over the years. I
> > > > don't know what caused the leak as it came on
> > > > fairly suddenly. I'm
> > > > guessing that it is just continued stress from
> > > > over the years as I
> > > > notice that the rack has a little play (by
> > > > design?) and the lines to
> > > > get some tension on them.
> > > >
> > > > Can anyone give me some advice, either
> > temporary
> > > > fix or permanent. I
> > > > will need the car tomorrow so if I can't seal
> > it
> > > > properly, then I will
> > > > probably just undo the power steering pump
> > belt so
> > > > that I won't
> > > > destroy it. I've posted a couple pics on my
> > site
> > > > just to show the
> > > > items in question. They can be seen here:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
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Received on Mon Aug 29 23:59:36 2005
