Get someone to help with this (just makes it easier) so you can listen
while they start the engine.
Listen to see if you can hear the injectors when the engine is running.
It is almost certainly a pulsed injection system, meaning that while the
engine is idling, you can probably hear the injectors ticking. Once you
have identified the injector noise, turn the car on, and listen for the
injectors when starting. This will tell you how the injectors normally
sound during startup. There may be a pause between starting to crank the
engine, and the injectors starting to click, this is the ecu checking
everything and getting the timing right before adding fuel.
Next time the engine stops, try listening for the injectors when
starting again.
If they click as normal, and it doesn't start, you could try a bit of
engine start ether. If this causes it to even try to fire then you know
that the problem is with the fuel supply prior to the injectors. From
what you have described though, this seems unlikely, as a fault prior to
the injectors would probably cause the fuel pressure to drop, but not
instantly fail.
If they don't click, check for poor electrical connections. Connections
to check are for power to ignition, injection and fuel relays and ecus,
and also for connections between any sensors and the ecus. Find (or ask
the garage to show you) the possible bad connections, (ie end of sensor
cables, connector blocks, relays, ecus etc) and with the engine running
try wiggling them in turn and listen for a blip, misfire, or engine
stall. Note that the bad connection may be between the relay and
terminals, between the two sides of the connector block, or between the
wires and the terminals on the end (this being most probable based on my
experience). A faulty connection can be very hard to find, as they
usually work well when the car is running, but not being driven (again
by experience). A faulty connection can basically stop the injectors
from opening for a short time, and this is just like turning the engine
on and off. By the way, the fault could be in either the positive or
negative sides of the circuits (or both).
With the alarm, have you tried turning it on and off with the ignition
key in all of the possible positions? Does it have a valet switch or
anything like that? Perhaps the remote battery is flat or the alarm has
a wiring fault?
Hope this helps,
Kevin
Steve Rodgers wrote:
>Hi, I'm almost at the end of my tether trying to figure out this
>problem - and if anyone here can help me out I would really appreciate it.
>
>I've got a 98 406 coupe - 3.0 v6 manual. great car.
>
>bought it 3 years ago, and there has been an intermittent problem
>which has been getting progressively worse.
>
>basically, from time to time the car will stop pumping fuel for a very
>small amount of time - say a few seconds. really quite violent stop -
>as if the fuel pump has halted. then it comes back fine.
>the car has had about 60 hours of diagnostics at caffyns peugeot, and
>they can't find any faults.
>
>it gets worse though, the problem gets more frequent - e.g. every few
>minutes instead of every few days. then the car just stops completely.
>usually when I'm driving at full-pelt down the motorway, resulting in
>a freewheel into the hard-shoulder.
>
>once it's stopped it will not restart - again as if the fuel pump has
>gone. I get the orange engine-management problem light coming on.
>
>I disconnect the battery - by removing postive terminal - alarm goes
>off. reconnect battery - alarm still goes off. alarm will not turn off
>at all now - even with key.
>but, the engine works again. eventually after about 10 mins the alarm
>will stop its noise - really very anonying.
>
>the problem is that it's an intermittent problem and that I cannot get
>the car to the garage whenever it does happen, and they cannot
>reproduce it.
>
>the ECU doesn't store any faults.
>
>could this be a faulty ECU? - that's my gut feeling.
>has anyone experienced or heard of anything similar to this before?
>
>regards
>
>steve
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Tue Sep 6 05:19:48 2005
