[Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 STX potential problems
Kevin's e-mail reminded me of a couple of more things about my STX.
The variable power steering developed a fault - it wasn't variable
anymore - so I simply unplugged it, which made it too light at
highways speeds but protected my wallet. The intermittment
electrical faults to which Kevin refers drove me nuts. Poor
connections seemed to be the culprit. The worst one was the dopey
socket/plug that the injector relay - hit a bump in the road and the
thing would jarr lose.
My STX was a beautiful car to look at, sit in , and drive, but
keeping it running was tough.
Hugo
- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, Pug NZ <pug-yahoo2@...> wrote:
>
> Unlike Hugo, I have not had to replace heaps of parts, but the V6
has
> lots of electrical circuits and therefore lots of electrical
problems.
> Repaired alternator at 150,000 miles, worn thru slip rings,
replaced
> rings, brushes and bearings, NZ$100
> Replaced faulty rotor, resistance too high leading to 6 flashes on
LED.
> This has happened to several cars around 150,000 miles. The cap has
the
> date of manufacture stamped inside, and the ones that failed were
all
> original.
> On one, the ABS developed an internal leak in the master cylinder
at
> 190,000 miles, car had rust around the sunroof, so it has been
relegated
> to donor status
> Autos and torque converters, noisy in drive or R but not P or N =
torque
> converter bearing
> Auto sticks in first when cold, then changes after warmed up, when
stuck
> in first, no engine braking - rebuild required
> Always change the trans oil and filter.
>
> The main problem have been intermittent electrical faults, usually
seems
> to be poor connections rather than faulty parts, and there are a
lot of
> connections that could go wrong. Are you good at diagnosing this
sort of
> fault or do you have infinitely deep pockets to pay someone else to?
>
> Eg, car is running, then just dies. Look under the bonnet, car
won't
> start, no injector clicks. Fiddle around near the fuse box, then it
> starts. Huh what did I do? Eventually traced to poor connections on
the
> socket that the injector relay fits into.
> Alternator usually worked, but not always. At times the alt light
would
> not turn on. One time my wife called the Auto Assoc to jump start
her.
> He did so and checked the alt, not charging. She said she would
start
> the engine again, and he said that wouldn't help, the alternator
was
> stuffed. She said she was going to anyway and did it, still not
> charging. Told ya so he said, so she started it again, this time it
> started charging. The AA guy had never seen that before!
>
> Check front suspension bushes, check for excess play in driveshaft
> (clunks when taking up drive after coasting), check the LED goes on
when
> the ignition is on before starting (some wrench monkeys cut the led
wire
> or remove it to solve error codes!) check abs and brake lights go
on
> with key on, then turn off, check abs works on grass or gravel.
>
> From experience, 200,000 miles could be near the end of life
unless the
> mileage was done quickly, eg sales rep etc.
>
> All the best,
> Kevin
>
> kenneth parker wrote:
> > I plan on looking at an 87 505 STX next week that has over
200K
> > miles on it, but is supposed to be in pretty good shape. It has
the
> > 2.8 liter V-6 in it and has a little rust at the rear fender
wells
> > and drips a little oil from the pan.
> >
> > I have had a few 4 cylinder 505's, but never a V-6. I am
> > curious what I should look out for when evaluating the car. Is
there
> > any sort of engine/mechanical weakness that I should look for, or
any
> > other inherent weakness that the V-6 has?
> >
> > Any suggestions as to what to look out for will be greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Ken
> >
> >
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Received on Sun Sep 10 18:57:39 2006
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