I gave the car a few days to think about its zero compression in
cylinder #3 and just returned from pulling the valve cover.
Everything looked just fine, with both the intake and exhaust on #3
operating (mechanically) well.
I realize that it is pull the head time (the head has been on all of
8 months) and I am curious as to what to look for by way of piston/
ring problems. Are there some things I can check before pulling the
head that will give me more information as to the condition of the
pistons and rings. I did notice that one plug -I think it was #3-
was a bit oil fouled and I am curious if I should go deeper than just
doing the head.
I did change the timing chain and tensioner last week before I
started it up though I am quite certain that I lined the marks up
perfectly. I can't imagine that I did it wrong and bent a valve.
Thanks,
Ken
On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:56 AM, Rabin Rutten-James wrote:
> Could be as simple as one of the valves staying open - and if
> that's the case a simple valve adjustment on that one piston might
> do the trick.
>
> I had the same thing happen to a 505 Turbo - but in that case it
> was a chunck missing out of the valve.
>
> I feel bad for you - and I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's
> just out of whack. (did you reset valve lash after the head
> replacement and subsequent retorque's?)
>
> Rabin
>
>
>
> From: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com [mailto:peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of kenneth parker
> Sent: November 5, 2006 2:50 AM
> To: Peugeot Group
> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 84 XN6, zero compression
>
> After about a month of painstaking detail work on my 84 XN6 505 I
> finally completed it and got it started. It seemed to run very
> roughly and I had to keep the rpm's up just to get it to stay
> running. I remember that it had been running roughly before I
> retired it, but it always started and idled at relatively low rpm's.
>
> Anyhow, tonight, after first messing with the timing, I pulled the
> plugs to check the compression. I had put a reconditioned head on
> about 8 months ago (new valves, guides, seals, resurfaced, etc.), so
> I figured that the compression would be okay. It was in three
> cylinders, 175 in each. The fourth cylinder, number three, read
> zero, wet or dry.
>
> The plug was a little oily when I pulled it and I figured that that
> was the cause of the poor idling. Before I did the most recent
> series of repairs (new timing chain, tensioner, both pan gaskets,
> rear main lateral seals, new official Peugeot strut kits) I thought
> about sending the car to the California vehicle buy back program.
> Parts for the repair that I did cost me about $500 and the buy back
> program will give me $650.
>
> I have two questions:
>
> 1. I have a good Proto quick release compression gauge that I double
> and triple checked. Might there be any sort of simple explanation as
> to why I got a zero read in cylinder #3?
>
> 2. To qualify for the buy back program I think that the car has to
> idle on its own. How can I bump up the rpm's (I don't care if it
> idles at 2000 rpm) so that it will run by itself for the 30, or so,
> seconds that it needs to in order to satisfy the buy back criteria?
>
> If it weren't for the fact that the car has major windshield and rear
> window rust and a ratty interior I would think about keeping it. All
> I want to do at this point is never see it again.
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
>
>
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Received on Wed Nov 8 02:23:35 2006
