Rob,
The stick moves and bumping it over with a test lead from starter to
battery shows everything to appear okay. I have not checked the
clearances yet. What would the clearances tell me?
Thanks,
Ken
On Nov 5, 2006, at 6:55 AM, Rob Courter wrote:
> Ken,
>
> Put a stick through the spark plug hole until it hits
> the top of the piston. Rotate the engine... does the
> stick move ?
>
> Just having a piston rapidly moving up and down in a
> cylinder will create 20 to 30 lbs compression (unless
> your gauge doesn't read that low).
>
> If the piston is indeed moving, check the valve
> clearances.
>
> Rob @ Javel, Inc. (formerly Garage Courtier) Dallas
>
> --- kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com> wrote:
>
>> After about a month of painstaking detail work on my
>> 84 XN6 505 I
>> finally completed it and got it started. It seemed
>> to run very
>> roughly and I had to keep the rpm's up just to get
>> it to stay
>> running. I remember that it had been running
>> roughly before I
>> retired it, but it always started and idled at
>> relatively low rpm's.
>>
>> Anyhow, tonight, after first messing with the
>> timing, I pulled the
>> plugs to check the compression. I had put a
>> reconditioned head on
>> about 8 months ago (new valves, guides, seals,
>> resurfaced, etc.), so
>> I figured that the compression would be okay. It
>> was in three
>> cylinders, 175 in each. The fourth cylinder, number
>> three, read
>> zero, wet or dry.
>>
>> The plug was a little oily when I pulled it and I
>> figured that that
>> was the cause of the poor idling. Before I did the
>> most recent
>> series of repairs (new timing chain, tensioner, both
>> pan gaskets,
>> rear main lateral seals, new official Peugeot strut
>> kits) I thought
>> about sending the car to the California vehicle buy
>> back program.
>> Parts for the repair that I did cost me about $500
>> and the buy back
>> program will give me $650.
>>
>> I have two questions:
>>
>> 1. I have a good Proto quick release compression
>> gauge that I double
>> and triple checked. Might there be any sort of
>> simple explanation as
>> to why I got a zero read in cylinder #3?
>>
>> 2. To qualify for the buy back program I think that
>> the car has to
>> idle on its own. How can I bump up the rpm's (I
>> don't care if it
>> idles at 2000 rpm) so that it will run by itself for
>> the 30, or so,
>> seconds that it needs to in order to satisfy the buy
>> back criteria?
>>
>> If it weren't for the fact that the car has major
>> windshield and rear
>> window rust and a ratty interior I would think about
>> keeping it. All
>> I want to do at this point is never see it again.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ken
>>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Thu Nov 9 12:33:22 2006
