OnAfter about a month of painstaking detail work on my 84 XN6 505 I
finally completed it and got it started. It seemed to run very
roughly and I had to keep the rpm's up just to get it to stay
running. I remember that it had been running roughly before I
retired it, but it always started and idled at relatively low rpm's.
Anyhow, tonight, after first messing with the timing, I pulled the
plugs to check the compression. I had put a reconditioned head on
about 8 months ago (new valves, guides, seals, resurfaced, etc.), so
I figured that the compression would be okay. It was in three
cylinders, 175 in each. The fourth cylinder, number three, read
zero, wet or dry.
The plug was a little oily when I pulled it and I figured that that
was the cause of the poor idling. Before I did the most recent
series of repairs (new timing chain, tensioner, both pan gaskets,
rear main lateral seals, new official Peugeot strut kits) I thought
about sending the car to the California vehicle buy back program.
Parts for the repair that I did cost me about $500 and the buy back
program will give me $650.
I have two questions:
- I have a good Proto quick release compression gauge that I double
and triple checked. Might there be any sort of simple explanation as
to why I got a zero read in cylinder #3?
- To qualify for the buy back program I think that the car has to
idle on its own. How can I bump up the rpm's (I don't care if it
idles at 2000 rpm) so that it will run by itself for the 30, or so,
seconds that it needs to in order to satisfy the buy back criteria?
If it weren't for the fact that the car has major windshield and rear
window rust and a ratty interior I would think about keeping it. All
I want to do at this point is never see it again.
Thanks,
Ken
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Received on Sun Nov 5 00:50:43 2006
