Any sign of a blown headgasket. cracked liner etc? ie water in oil, oil
in water, using water etc?
If not, then first thing mechanical to check would be that the valve
clearances are okay. If the clearances are too small, you could have a
valve open all the time. Another check would be to take off the radiator
cap, then put compressed air into the cylinder (i use an old spark plug
with the ceramic broken out and the end of a truck inner tube valve
welded in). The engine should turn so that #3 is at the bottom of the
cylinder, then see where air comes out. If it is mainly exhaust or inlet
manifolds, suspect valve incorrectly adjusted or damaged. Spouts of
water out the radiator indicate damaged head, head gasket or cylinder
liner. Ejected dipstick indicated cracked head, head gasket, or piston.
I once had a 504 that developed a hole down the side of a piston about 1
cm diameter, it used 4 litres of oil over about 5 km, but it still ran okay.
Did you check the protrusion of the liners when the head was put on?
Failure to do this can result in a head gasket failing in as little as
1000 miles.
regards,
Kevin
kenneth parker wrote:
> After about a month of painstaking detail work on my 84 XN6 505 I
> finally completed it and got it started. It seemed to run very
> roughly and I had to keep the rpm's up just to get it to stay
> running. I remember that it had been running roughly before I
> retired it, but it always started and idled at relatively low rpm's.
>
> Anyhow, tonight, after first messing with the timing, I pulled the
> plugs to check the compression. I had put a reconditioned head on
> about 8 months ago (new valves, guides, seals, resurfaced, etc.), so
> I figured that the compression would be okay. It was in three
> cylinders, 175 in each. The fourth cylinder, number three, read
> zero, wet or dry.
>
> The plug was a little oily when I pulled it and I figured that that
> was the cause of the poor idling. Before I did the most recent
> series of repairs (new timing chain, tensioner, both pan gaskets,
> rear main lateral seals, new official Peugeot strut kits) I thought
> about sending the car to the California vehicle buy back program.
> Parts for the repair that I did cost me about $500 and the buy back
> program will give me $650.
>
> I have two questions:
>
> 1. I have a good Proto quick release compression gauge that I double
> and triple checked. Might there be any sort of simple explanation as
> to why I got a zero read in cylinder #3?
>
> 2. To qualify for the buy back program I think that the car has to
> idle on its own. How can I bump up the rpm's (I don't care if it
> idles at 2000 rpm) so that it will run by itself for the 30, or so,
> seconds that it needs to in order to satisfy the buy back criteria?
>
> If it weren't for the fact that the car has major windshield and rear
> window rust and a ratty interior I would think about keeping it. All
> I want to do at this point is never see it again.
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
>
>
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Received on Sun Nov 5 01:36:52 2006
