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91 405Mi16x4 Rear wheel drive conversion north south engine

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I bought this car back in 2009, the car is a original 405 mi16x4 that means full time 4 wheel drive 53/47 wheel split on power the engine is original 1.9mi16 116 kw 160 hp, drove the car all the way thru collage had a lot of fun, about 2 years ago the 4WD(wheel drive) broke stripe the spline on the input shaft of the transfer case, no economical replacement parts so i put a diff in the original gearbox and became FWD so i remove the driveshaft and rear diff, as much as a like wheel spin, spinning you are not winning, noting like 4wd grip, i decided to go RWD to get more grip, i'm planning to use a getrag 240 copy form GM and the original drive shaft and torsen diff, this are pictures of the car when i bought the car in 2009 is the silver one, the red one is my father's 405 and the 605 was my brothers

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Any big project contains lots of small projects that all together make it a one, to day my project was to repair the rear diff support bracket or as i call it the mustache bar, the bar was bent and has some rust on it, so i cut some un use brackets, and started using a hammer to make it straight but it seems to be made out of spring steel so ended using the press and made it straight, next cleaned it with wire brush and spray it with anti rust solution, couple hours later cleaned it with acetone and spray it primer black, more coming soon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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North south conversion will be interesting to see, are you keeping the XU9J4?

The mustache must be made with high elastic limit steel like most of the bodyshell.

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On 2/6/2016 at 2:06 PM, SRDT said:

North south conversion will be interesting to see, are you keeping the XU9J4?

The mustache must be made with high elastic limit steel like most of the bodyshell.

Yes i'm using the mi16 and planning to turbo charge it, if i can found standalone engine management for cheap, i was thinking using a 90 degree ZPJ v6 that i have sitting around but using the original engine is easy to register and insure and is going to be a street car.

 

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They are OK with the Nort-South RWD and turbo but you better keep the engine? Well at least you seem to be able to register and insure it not like in France.

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Today i worked on the dirties job on any car, the CV joint grease, graphite grease, today i jack up the car in the air and removed the outer part od the cv joint to complete the work of refurbishing the rear axles and preparing the diff for installation back in the car, the diff was disassembled checked and reasemeld last summer, As you can see my mi16x4 is very different than a standard mi16 ther are no spring or torsion bars it uses hydraulics like citroen, ther are no shock absorbers, and the height is adjustable by moving a single bracket the damping in control by valves wich can be change very easy and the spring rate is changed by changing the green sphere, i found little more rust than taught and a very bad repair on the exhaust, i'll spend couple of days underneath it repairing rust and installing the diff, i'll leave the exhaust for now, will make a new one after the conversion more coming soon

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That exhaust is scrap but i need to redo it once i rotate the engine 90 degrees.

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Today started by removing the drain and fill plugs, one of the job was to find a temperature sensor, i like to keep my eye on the temperatures, and glue a magnet on it, i used a teflon tape to seal it, went to the parts store and bought more graphite grease and oil for the diff, mounting the diff started by bolting the front mount, and inserted the axles and jack it up and bolted the mustache bar and rear two mounts, used my engine crane to hold the funnel to fill the diff, so i spend half day on my back on cold garage floor, hard dirty job, unfortunately i develop a fuel leak from dry rotted hose, so tomorrows job to up grade the fuel system.

 

 

 

 

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Today didn't go as planned, the plan was to redo the entire fuel system and upgrade the pump, but got caught running around town completing tasks, but got something done, started cutting a piece of the original bracket and mocking it up after couple of measurements i made two brackets, used a piece of rubber and used rubber under the washers and bolts to limit vibrations and noise,i also got too used my new step drill bit, they work great, the pumps i plan to use are the original bosch 130-200 lph pumps, but two, to support bigger injectors that i plan to turbocharged it, more to came.

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Today job was to install the dual fuel pumps, for now i'm using just one, will connect them once i redo the entire system, so first started to make the car levitate, also made a good ground to the pumps and to the diff, so the temperature sensor is installed will work properly, this is how i purge my fuel system, the right fuse is for the pump removed the fuse and connected +12v to the right side of the fuse, no leaks, idling smoothly.dsc_0167.jpg.44df73661bbaeb89451e9d0d96b

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Today started by making "the list" all parts that i will need for the conversion, for starters will need to make a big shelf for the parts.

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Today all my plans got delayed, the garage is getting its heating system install, unfortunately may take a month or two before i can get my garage back and start the real work, i'm still going to post daily up dates on parts that how they arrive.

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Today spend half a day moving, reorganizing (making a mess) my spare parts to make room for the heating equipment, the good news found some parts that i forgot about, more tomorrow.

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Yesterday by cleaning the garage found the patch panel for the rust under the fuel door, i forgot that i had it, later in the project will make the repair, today my fuel injectors came from ultrasonic cleaning, i got them couple of years back wanted to install them, read about them on couple of forums, factory mi16 injector 0 280 150 762, the new generation bosch blue 0 280 155 712, they should provide better throttle response and better fuel economy, later when i go turbo will need bigger injectors, some of my fuel components arrived AN6 conversion kit for some toyota, thinking that can use it on the mi16 fuel rail, but looking it i can't use any of them, ordered some more, and my boost controller came in the mail, cheap china knock off of the turbosmart boost-tee.

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According to Bosch the modern equivalent to the old injector is 0 280 156 045, but it should be noted that the injector was used on both 2 valves and 4 valves engines so maybe there is a better one for 4v engines.

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The factory 0 280 150 762 is 214 cc @3bar 14.9ohm, bosch 0 280 155 712 is 204 cc @ 3 bar 14.9 ohms, and they are easy to found used on opel 2.5 and 3.0 v6 that leaves me 2 extra injectors, couple people have used them and have great success.

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Today is a big day i got my turbocharger, is a old school T3 Garrett TB0367 out of a lancia delta integrale, is little small for my taste, but on the stock engine will keep me out of trouble, got the turbo really complete it has its water pipes and oil drain, tested the west gate actuator tested ok opens at about 1 bar, i need to found oil supply flange, oil drain bung for the oil pan, T3 flange, gaskets, got the original down pipe, slight problem the down pipe bolts have snapped, one unbolted easy, the other two will need some heat to came out, got this overboost solenoid from the same car, not sure if i'll use it.

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Today started removing the broken bolts from the turbo, they give me a fight, started with stud extractor, it keep slipping, started with welding bolt on them using penetrating oil heat,they come out, after breaking couple time.

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Couple more parts arrived, I made a T3 flange, and couple more pieces for the oil supply and drain, and bought couple of AN6 fittings.

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Today's job was to repair the drive shaft support bearing, this is the original one from 1991, 15000 km ago i replaced it because bearing become noisy and the rubber was split, bought a new one for mercedes w202, and used spacers and longer bolts to make it fit, now it is ruined, not sure if it was too weak or bad quality, looked for a original one, found that is identical for scenic rx4 but could not found a new one, found a guy breaking a rx4, he assured me he has one in mint condition, sent it out, when it arrived it was ripped only the outside part arrived, no bearing race and bearing, did not buy it, so decide to try the windscreen sealant metod,i cut 4 openings and clean it all, made a mechanical tooth to stick,and fill it more then standard, now is more solid, and bought a new bearing, will press it on when i refurbish the drive shaft, not a part that you see on a 405, only on 4x4.

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Yes SRDT, i'll try using the original drive shaft, am sure when i go turbo one thing i'll break is the u joints on the drive shaft, then i'll get one piece costume built drive shaft.

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Today my new boost gauge came in the mail, i went for a digital gauge, it shows volts as well, so i won't install a separate volt gauge, i will buy two oil temp gauges for the diff temp , gearbox temp, and air/fuel ratio, my DIY led air/fuel gauge is accurate, but i want a digital display, so i'll use a oil pressure, boost, 2 temp and air/fuel ratio gauges, i have a good NTK O2 sensor for the gauge,i got word that my friend got me a fuel regulator, i'll get ti in the next few days.

 

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